Tucked beyond the Annapurna and Dhaulagiri ranges lies Mustang, an enigmatic land also known as the “Forbidden Kingdom”. Stretched into the Tibetan Plateau, it is a place where history, culture, and breathtaking landscapes converge.
Though it has no longer been a kingdom since the abolishment of the monarchy in 2008, Mustang continues to captivate explorers and cultural enthusiasts alike.
A Glimpse into the Past
Historically known as the Kingdom of Lo, Ame Pal discovered Mustang in 1380 and established Lo Manthang as its walled capital.
In 1795, Mustang became part of Nepal but retained its status as a semi-autonomous principality until the mid-20th century. The last king, Jigme Dorje Palbar Bista, traced his lineage back to Ame Pal.
Mustang, once the Kingdom of Lo, was a vital trade hub and a base for Tibetan Khampa resistance. Its Tibetan Buddhist and Bon traditions remain well-preserved.
Connected to Tibet and the Indian subcontinent, Mustang’s location made it a vital trade hub. They used to trade salt, wool, and grain along ancient routes crossing the Kali Gandaki gorge, the world’s deepest canyon. In the mid-20th century, these trails also hosted Tibetan Khampa guerrillas. Mustang became a base for their resistance against Chinese forces.
The Mysteries of Mustang
Mustang’s allure lies in its landscapes and cultural treasures. Vast, arid valleys, framed by red and ochre cliffs, create a desert-like appearance. The region is home to the famed “sky caves” and thousands of man-made caverns carved into cliffs.
Archaeological findings from these caves include pottery shards, ancient manuscripts, and mummified remains. These suggest human habitation as far back as 800 BCE. The origins and purpose of these caves remain mysterious, adding to Mustang’s intrigue.
Mustang’s isolation preserved its Tibetan Buddhist traditions. These offer a rare glimpse into a way of life untouched by modernity. Monasteries like Thubchen and Jampa house exquisite murals and mandalas. The annual Tiji Festival brings vibrant rituals and masked dances to Lo Manthang. This festival reenacts the myth of a demon’s defeat.
Unique to Mustang is its Bon tradition, an ancient belief system predating Buddhism. The village of Lubra remains a stronghold of this faith. It provides a living connection to Mustang’s spiritual diversity.
Challenges of Modernity
After it opened for tourism in 1992, Mustang became a place to visit for travellers worldwide. The place has only reigned in popularity ever since.
The region’s sky caves, monasteries, and arid valleys hold centuries-old secrets, with artefacts dating back to 800 BCE adding to their allure.
However, the region’s transition into modernity has brought challenges. Concrete structures are replacing traditional mud-brick houses. The younger generations leave ageing populations behind to migrate to cities.
Roads now connect Lo Manthang to the rest of Nepal. But this access comes with a cost, threatening Mustang’s delicate balance of culture and environment.
The effects of climate change are becoming more evident. Locals report erratic weather patterns. Some areas receive scant rainfall, while others face heavy deluges. Mustang’s fragile ecosystem, already strained by human activity, faces an uncertain future.
A Call for Preservation
Both the cave systems of Upper Mustang and the walled city of Lo Manthang were proposed as UNESCO World Heritage Sites by Nepal in 1996 and 2008, respectively, but they are not yet formally listed. Achieving this status would boost tourism and ensure support for preserving Mustang’s history and heritage. It is essential to safeguard ancient monasteries, prevent art theft, and maintain the region’s identity.
Mustang is an extraordinary place where the past and present coexist. Ancient trade routes whisper stories of yore. The resilience of locals shines amidst change. No longer forbidden, its mysteries and wonders make Mustang as mesmerising as ever.
Pratikshya Bhatta is a junior editor with Nepal Connect.
