If you happen to be strolling along the banks of the Kali Gandaki River, which originates in the Mustang region, you might find some shiny black stones of different shapes. But the stones are not your typical pebbles; they are Shaligrams.
The origins of Shaligram
An ancient ammonite fossil that has existed for approximately 400 to 67 million years, Shaligram originates from Damodar Kund, a high-altitude lake in the Damodar Himal range. Because of the lake’s elevation and harsh climatic conditions, it remains frozen for most of the year, making access incredibly challenging.
If the chakras are still intact, sacred texts permit the worship of broken Shaligrams, highlighting the stones' eternal holiness despite their outward flaws.During the brief summer months, when the ice melts, the Shaligrams are carried downstream through the Gandaki River and its tributary, the Triveni River, eventually reaching various accessible locations along the riverbanks.
As these fossils tumble down from the place of origin, many crack or break open, revealing intricate chakra markings and, sometimes, even gold deposits. If the chakras are still intact, sacred texts permit the worship of broken Shaligrams, highlighting the stones’ eternal holiness despite their outward flaws. The stone holds significant sacredness in the spiritual traditions of Hinduism, Buddhism, and the shamanic Himalayan Bon religion.
According to Hindu scriptures such as the Varaha, Padma, and Brahmavaivarta Puranas, Shaligram is a manifestation of Vishnu himself. The tale begins with goddess Tulsi, who cursed Vishnu to become a stone in the Kali Gandaki River as retribution for deceiving her. Tulsi transformed into the river, and Vishnu, in the form of Shaligrams, emerged from her waters. As part of the karmic cycle, this transformation represents Vishnu’s eternal birth from Tulsi.
Another legend from the Skanda Purana adds a fascinating dimension to the Shaligram’s creation. It is believed that a celestial worm known as vajra-kita (translated as thunderbolt or adamantine worm) carves the distinct spirals and holes found on Shaligrams.
The pilgrimage to Mustang
The spiritual journey to collect Shaligrams is an important pilgrimage, drawing devotees from across Nepal, India, and the global Hindu diaspora. This pilgrimage usually takes place between April and June and between late August and November, avoiding the severe winter and monsoon weather.
The journey begins in the village of Jomsom, where pilgrims trek northeast through the Kali Gandaki River Valley, flanked by towering peaks reaching up to 26,000 feet (8,000 meters). The village of Kagbeni, located on the river’s banks, serves as a key stop on the pilgrimage route. Here, pilgrims wade through the river’s waters, hoping to find these sacred stones.
The pilgrimage culminates at the temple of Muktinath, situated at an elevation of approximately 13,000 feet (4,000 meters). A unique sanctuary, Muktinath is revered by Hindus, Buddhists, and Bon practitioners alike.
For Hindus, Muktinath represents a place of moksha (liberation). The temple houses a prominent shrine dedicated to Lord Vishnu, where devotees offer prayers and perform rituals to attain spiritual salvation. The presence of 108 waterspouts, known as Muktidhara, allows pilgrims to perform ceremonial baths, purifying themselves and their Shaligrams in the icy, sanctified waters believed to cleanse sins and grant blessings.
Likewise, in Buddhism, Muktinath is worshipped as Chumig Gyatsa, which translates to “Hundred Waters” and is connected to Avalokiteshvara, the compassionate bodhisattva. The site embodies the harmonious coexistence of different faiths and stands as a testament to spiritual unity.
In the same way, Muktinath holds immense importance due to the presence of the “Jwala Mai” or Mother Flame, a natural gas vent that produces an eternal flame alongside the flowing waters for Bon practitioners. As a result of the earth, water, fire, and air elements coming together, Muktinath is a potent place for worship and meditation.
The journey to Damodar Kund, however, is considered the ultimate spiritual expedition. Only a few kilometres from Muktinath, in the remote Damodar Himal, it is reachable by a gruelling 15-day trek through challenging terrain and inclement weather.
Due to its remote location and high elevation, the lake is only reachable for a short time each summer when the ice melts and millions of Shaligrams lie beneath its crystal-clear waters.
The most devoted pilgrims make the journey to Damodar Kund, which represents a significant act of devotion and faith. Locals often assist in retrieving Shaligrams from the lake and riverbeds, diving into the frigid waters to collect these divine fossils for distribution among devotees worldwide.
A spiritual struggle
The Southern Tibetan Plateau, which provides meltwater to the Kali Gandaki, is shrinking as the glaciers that sustain it continue to recede. This lessens the river flow and the likelihood that Shaligrams will be carried downstream. Climate change-induced accelerated glacial melting and human activities such as gravel mining are altering the course of the Kali Gandaki River. As the river shifts away from the fossil beds that produce Shaligrams, these sacred stones are becoming increasingly rare.
The Southern Tibetan Plateau, which provides meltwater to the Kali Gandaki, is shrinking as the glaciers that sustain it continue to recede. This lessens river flow and the likelihood that Shaligrams will be carried downstream. As a result, pilgrims are finding it harder to locate them.
The pilgrimage to Mustang and the search for Shaligrams are more than just physical journeys; they are spiritual quests that connect devotees with the divine.
Currently, pilgrims are still able to locate the stones and bring them into their homes. However, the task becomes more challenging every year, and it is getting harder to see a new Shaligram emerge from the riverbed. The return trip from Mustang is tinged with the awareness that the landscape is changing, despite the excitement of acquiring a new household deity.
For those who have made the pilgrimage, the experience is unforgettable. The hope remains that Shaligrams will continue to emerge from the waters of the Kali Gandaki, sustaining this ancient tradition for generations to come.
Sudipa Mahato is a junior editor with Nepal Connect.