In a nation where nearly 80% of the population is Hindu, Dashain is one of its biggest festivals. Yet, while most of Nepal rejoices in this festival of love, togetherness, and the triumph of good over evil, one village does things differently.
In Khokana, even among Hindus, Dashain is not celebrated. Instead, the locals honour their own goddess through a centuries-old festival known as Sikali Jatra. Khokana, an ancient Newa town in the southern belt of Kathmandu, comes alive each year to worship the goddess Sikali.
Locals say the festival began with a legend. A man with leprosy was once expelled from the Kathmandu Valley and buried alive. The goddess Sikali brought him back to life. Grateful for her mercy, he and his wife settled in Khokana. Since then, the townspeople have worshipped Sikali for protection from disease and disasters. Her feast gradually replaced Dashain as the main festival of the community.
The festival usually lasts eight to nine days, starting at Ghatasthapana (the first day of Dashain) and ending around Maha Nawami (the ninth day). On the first day, eight young boys are chosen from the three main communities of the town and secretly taken inside the Sikali temple. These boys, known as Kumars, spend the next four days performing secret Tantric rituals meant to satiate the gods.
Within the temple, the boys follow strict norms: they cannot eat eggs, chicken, or garlic, drink alcohol, and are allowed only one meal a day. Before the ritual, they bathe in the Bagmati River and wear only a daura on their upper body.
When they reappear on the fifth day, the festival truly begins. The silence of the past days is replaced with the beats of drums and the buzz of anticipation. Khokana comes alive as goddess Sikali’s palanquin is carried from her temple to the town square. Trustees from the three Guthis, along with the appointed priests, accompany the goddess to conduct various rituals.
Perhaps the most striking part of the festival is the sixth day, when a procession of deities begins. Fourteen deities come to life through people in traditional masks and costumes, representing guardians like Bhairav, Indrayani, and Vishnu. Some of the deities walk barefoot over burning coals.
These masked dancers move through the narrow lanes, stopping at courtyards where rituals take place. The dance is performed again on the seventh day. Locals say performers are chosen from specific Guthis and follow strict customs leading up to the festival.
On the eighth day, when the rituals end, the goddess’s idol is returned to the temple. People then share food, visit relatives, and rest. The prasad distributed that day, which includes rice and lentils, is believed to have healing powers.
However, this festival is more than just a replacement for Dashain. For the people of Khokana, Sikali Jatra is not just about rituals or masks—it’s about identity. It connects them to their ancestors and preserves the values on which their community was built.
The festival also brings people together. Families gather to cook, clean, and decorate. The Guthis work for weeks preparing costumes and repairing the chariot. Even young people who live in Kathmandu or abroad return home to witness it.
And, while modern life challenges the festival’s legacy, it continues for now.
Pratikshya Bhatta is a junior editor at Nepal Connect.
