For Newa Buddhists in the Kathmandu Valley, Gunlā, the tenth month of the Nepal Sambat lunar calendar, which usually falls in August, is considered the holiest month.
This holy period beginning today has continued to serve as a living link between cultural expression, community, and devotion for centuries.
The name “Gunlā” comes from the Newa language, where “Gun” means virtue or merit and “La” means month. So, Gunlā quite literally is a “month of merit”. But it’s also a month to reorient one’s spiritual compass. In the hazy light of dawn, people get up early, walk to historic shrines, recite prayers, and perform devotional music.
The early morning walks are meditative pilgrimages for entire families, who dress simply and walk barefoot, reconnecting with the land and their faith.
Similarly, the month is dedicated to good deeds and community service, alongside prayer and reflection. People avoid eating meat, onions, and garlic, and they bathe daily for cleansing purposes. Likewise, people take it as an opportunity to break bad habits and embrace the path of virtue. They pray for the souls of the deceased, including relatives, family, and strangers who died during the year, and visit Buddhist sites for puja. They also pray for wellness and a decrease in natural disasters.
Besides, Gunla is marked by daily pilgrimages to sacred sites like Swayambhunath, Shobha Bhagwati, and Bijeshwari. The tradition of walking to Swayambhu in the early dawn is slowly adapting to modern conveniences. People now rent microbuses so the entire community can reach Swayambhu together.
The restored Swayambhu Chaitya is expected to attract approximately 500,000 Theravada, Mahayana, and Vajrayana Buddhist followers from here and abroad this year.
“We have prepared to ensure the safety of devotees, manage crowds effectively, maintain cleanliness, and organise street lighting,” states Ashok Buddhacharya, General Secretary of the Swayambhu Management and Conservation Committee.
For devotees unable to visit Swayambhu, local bihars provide a spiritual refuge. The devotion of individuals like Gyani Maharjan and the communal efforts of the Newa community ensure that the spirit of Gunla continues to thrive.
In Lalitpur, the tradition of Bwo-gi starts as early as 1:30 in the morning. Groups of pilgrims walk to several key stupas, Lagankhel, Banglamukhi, and others, each holding their rituals.
One of the visual highlights of this festival is Bahidyah Bwayegu, when courtyards display enormous images of Dipankara Buddha and vibrant paubha scrolls. The festival blends music and art in a display of beauty and devotion, showcasing centuries-old, protected artworks with reverence.
During Gunla, Panchadaan is a popular festival celebrated on the thirteenth day of the waning moon, where households display Dipankara Buddha statues and donate five grains—paddy, rice, wheat, green peas, and soybeans—plus salt to priests and monks.
“The Dipankara Buddha statues in front of every house looked like personal spiritual guardians,” Shital fondly remembers. “Donating grains during Panchadaan signifies the revered Buddhist tradition of altruism.”
The last day of this festival is called Yanlathwo Paru, marked by Paru Bwoyegu. Families and devotees come together to offer prayers for the end of suffering and peace in all their hearts.
According to an old myth, evil spirits and demons caused chaos while the Buddha was in deep meditation. The people, distressed and desperate, tried everything they could to rouse him. They played all kinds of bājas, traditional musical instruments, but nothing worked. The darkness persisted.
In their final attempt, they crafted a new instrument from a buffalo horn, calling it the Meku Bāja, also known as the Nyeku Bāja. They made two versions, one small and one large, and began to play them while chanting the names of Triratna and Hari. It did not sound anything like this before—bare, haunting, and holy.
The music awakened the Buddha, whose enlightenment brought protection, defeating demons and restoring peace. Since then, Gunla has been celebrated annually with songs in his honour.
More than just a festival, Gunla is a journey of faith, a celebration of heritage, and evidence of the enduring spirit of the Newa people.
Pratikshya Bhatta is a junior editor with Nepal Connect.
